3. Tribeca

Roaming the city with no particular reason in mind was something I enjoyed in my 20’s, and something that since the end of Covid in early 2024, I have returned to. In mid-October I had an appointment on a Monday in Lower Manhattan, just south of City Hall, which placed me in pleasurable proximity to Tribeca, where I had not been since the winter of 2019.

Tribeca was always important because of its proximity to Soho. Many exhibition openings in that era ended up at restaurants in Tribeca like Odeon. It had the same cobble stoned streets and cast iron architecture. Some artists lived there, cheek to jowl with art collectors. I walked up Broadway at first. The galleries, which we are all closed that day, presented their bald faces to me. I walked for a while and took some pictures. Just enjoying the city.

These blocks are windswept with few landmarks. I passed St Paul’s Church shaadowed by the Freedom Tower almost floating above it. Years agp I used to attend literary readings at St Pauls. Then after 9/11 I didn’t come down here for a full year. The area is back to its old energy.

Streets adjacent to City Hall, like Warren Street, had been altered by new buildings or remodelings of their facades. But I did pass this wonderful throwback of an old thrift shop called Miracle Trading run by an old woman who tested me on my NYC knowledge. Who did I know who used to live on the block? She had seen it all.

Turning north on Church Street, I walked a few more blocks uptown. A crowd of Gen Alphas were gathered outside a deli where I could smell various middle eastern foods from a hot buffet. They were young and goofy and some were Trans. I needed to get by and they smirked at me. What’d he say? I strode by as my showlaces came updone. I stopped at the next corner to look around myself and take some shots.

I passed close to what’s affectionately known as the Darth Vader Building, a unique structure in the city landscape that is actually an old telephone switching facility once used by AT&T for its long distance connections. It remains imposing. The entrance on the side street is equally macabre, a rabbit hole into another dimension. It looks like there’s only one way in.

Walking further up Thomas Street toward Broadway, it feels sunnier. The street combines a police station with flag, a Theatre, an picturesque cast iron loft building, some nice trees, and ends at the foot of a corporate edifice that despite its scale, fits the picture.

Finally, walking up Broadway through the deserted gallery district toward Canal Street, where I would struggle through street vendors and lost tourists to find the train uptown—I was alone and happy among great old buildings that are finding new life.